As most of you know by now I am from southern Spain. Here tradition is a word that is not thrown around like any other word. We are talking centuries of deep local (catholic for the most part) traditions mixed in with the superstitious nature of the Spanish southerner.
Holy week is celebrated on the week of the first full moon after the spring equinox from what we call ¨Palm Sunday until Resurrection Sunday¨. During this week the streets are full of music, passion and devotion from the locals. Images of known Biblical figures, mostly Jesus and Mary in key moments are accompanied by legions of quite intimidating penitents with candles,flags and emblems.This penitents accompany the images for hours from early in the day until the evening envelops the streets representing repentance and the mortification of their suffering to cleanse their sins, in imitation to the passion of Christ.
Disclaimer: I know most readers here will be scandalized by the aesthetics as they are quite similar to the KKK robes. But it has nothing to do with it whatsoever. These traditions were in Spain before The US was even declared independent from the UK.
Images are tied to brotherhoods, which also carry out throughout the year works of social charity and aid the people most in need and marginalized. I wanted to write this because I wasn't always the biggest fan of Holy Week, in many cases I tried to get away from it as I didn't feel connected to it and there is a big performative aspect to it. Especially in Malaga where the penitents carrying the main thrones with images go out with their faces uncovered, which in many cases will turn a brotherhood into a caste like system where people fight over the best position so as to be seen on the streets…Yes really!
Through the years and as I matured alongside my faith I was lucky enough to meet a priest who was leading the formative studies for a re-emerging brotherhood: "El Mutilado" or quite literally "The Mutilated"(due to the damaged leg resulting from the burn of the convents during the spanish civil war) now named the Christ of the clemency. In this brotherhood there is a different approach to other brotherhoods as to how the penitence is done and they also offer some really deep and insightful formation which I value a lot. It´s been 4 years already since I am a brother and after living abroad for so long I finally could go out and complete my act of penitence with the rest of the brotherhood and accompany Christ.
It is 15:30 on Passion Saturday. I make my way through the streets of Malaga on my way to the Church of the Sacred Heart. Meet some fellow brothers on the way there, I don't talk that much. Some of them are reminiscing about other years and commenting on the course the procession is taking this year, it tends to be a touchy subject. It's going to take us 6 hours to complete the full course. As we make our way into the church there it is standing on the throne, the crucified, on the side of the church the virgin of the divine providence is waiting for its year to take into the streets and watching the swiftness in which the brothers change into their robes.
I make my way into confession, a total of 3 priests are there attending everyone with their spiritual needs. I can't believe I mistook the gloves I took into church. They were supposed to be black and I took the white ones. Thank God the big brother (in this case sister) was there with emergency ones. As I set myself in the pew with all the fellow brothers the preparatory mass begins. The ritual takes place behind closed doors as the streets of Malaga are already full, waiting outside for the band to play the first notes and the march to begin.
We put our masks on, take our respective banner and as the doors open, the "guide cross" held by an acolyte takes the first step outside. Sobriety, passion and beauty start their dance and the streets go silent as the march keeps their pace. Here and there the throne is brought down to give room to the carriers to rest and the band to gasp for air.
Behind the mask I see people, friends and acquaintances. They can't recognize me unless I give them a sign. In this march we are all equal in the eyes of the beholder.
Tourists' faces melt. They take a corner and are suddenly faced with hundreds of years of tradition…Some of them see a religious parade, others fall into Christ's gaze, but both for a moment, fall silent and are met with the eternal.The music stops and they speak to each other in awe.They haven't seen anything like it. We keep our march and in every other street you see the same pattern repeat.
I retreat into my inside when we make it to the cathedral and the night falls. Pain is very much a constant at this point, here and there I take a look back and see the crucified. He made that sacrifice for me. "I can do this little effort in comparison too". I am carrying my grandpas ring, sometimes I pray an our father for him, I offer the pain, the silence, wait and the small inconveniences to all the souls in purgatory and keep a firm posture until we finally cross the church doors again after 6 hours.
We close the doors in complete darkness and chant, in that moment we all become one. Some words are spoken from the big sister and the lights come back on. I lift my mask and finally can breathe again, we hug each other and as people start making it home some of us stay and help get things back in order.
The crucified still there is moved to one of the sides in front of the virgin and we take a final picture before walking home in a silence and peace similar to the one you feel after reaching the top of a mountain. A peace that you only rarely feel in this life.
Holy week is an experience for the participant and the spectator, a tradition that if framed well can bring many fruits, but if not could lose all meaning and just be another parade. Devoid of meaning.